Water heater TPR valve discharge pipe must be the same size as the valve's discharge end, which is 3/4″ in diameter. The reason is simple – it has to be able to relief the same amount of water as the amount coming through the inlet side of the water heater, no reductions should be made or any type of valves installed between the safety relief valve valve and discharge pipe end. There should be no threads at the end of the water heater TPR valve discharge pipe, because when this valve starts leaking / dripping, and there's a thread at the end of pipe… some of the home owners cap it, which creates a very dangerous situation. Whenever the safety valve will be required to open because of the increasing temperature / pressure, that capped discharge pipe might cause the water heater to blow up. Water heater TPR valve discharge pipe must be made out of same materials that is used for water distribution – galvanized steel, hard-drawn copper or CPVC (regular PVC tubing would not withstand high temperature and it is not permitted).
Water heater TPR valve releases excessive tank pressure if for any reason it reaches an unsafe level, that's why all tank type units MUST HAVE a pressure relief valve installed On Mar 2, 2008 Last updated Jul 1, 2020 Water heater TPR valves must be installed on every water heater (gas or electric). TPRV – Temporary Pressure Relief Valve. Water heater TPR valve is also known as Watts Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve. The pressure relief valve is usually located on top or side wall of the tank enclosure (tankless water heater safety valve, also known as T&P valve is located underneath the appliance). Some old water heater tanks (1960s or earlier – they are still operating in some houses), were not equipped with pressure relief valves, and I would highly recommend replacement for safety and financial reasons (sediment at the base of old tanks is so thick, that it takes much more gas to heat up the same amount of water). Water heater TPR valve releases excessive tank pressure if for any reason it reaches an unsafe level, that's why all tank type units MUST HAVE a pressure relief valve installed, otherwise they could simply blow up.
This will work well if you have laundry hookups. Wait until the water heater is actively heating the water (you can expedite this step by using hot water, so go take a shower or something). Connect the gauge to any hot water outlet, and open the tap. Monitor the pressure through the end of the heating cycle. If you get a gauge with a " lazy hand ", it will stay at the highest pressure achieved. That way you won't have to stand by and watch the gauge the whole time. Test water temperature To test the temperature, all you need is a thermometer. Wait until the heater has just finished running. Open the nearest hot water tap, and let it run for a minute of two. Use the thermometer to measure the water temperature. Without knowing more information about the installation, it's very difficult to speculate as to why this is happening. Determining why the valve is opening (temperature, pressure, or some other reason), is the first step to diagnosing the problem. Once you understand why the valve is opening, it will make it much easier to figure out the cause of the problem.
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Give our team a call and have us out to your home to perform this service for you. Remember, this preventative maintenance can help prevent a tank burst and major water damage.